Getting up close and personal with the wildlife of Alaska’s bear country during the great summer salmon run.
Let’s go see the bears.
With so few people and so much life, the distant places in Alaska remind us of how much awe, emotion, and majesty nature shares when it’s left unfettered and wild.
We returned to Alaska to spend time getting to know its brown bears.
![He just woke up from his nap yards behind us.](/images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170723-DSCF7974-480w.jpg 480w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170723-DSCF7974-640w.jpg 640w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170723-DSCF7974-1024w.jpg 1024w)
Brown bears are among the largest land carnivores on Earth – a male coastal brown bear can weigh over 1,000 pounds. These are big, fast, immensely strong animals. Accordingly, they’re almost always good to keep your distance from – at least 300 yards – and take pains to avoid surprising. A suprised bear is a bad situation.
![Hanging out with mom.](/images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170721-DSCF3617-480w.jpg 480w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170721-DSCF3617-640w.jpg 640w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170721-DSCF3617-1024w.jpg 1024w)
![Psst…sharing an (adorable) secret.](/images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170722-DSCF1074-480w.jpg 480w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170722-DSCF1074-640w.jpg 640w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170722-DSCF1074-1024w.jpg 1024w)
I’d been lucky enough to spend a previous summer in Alaska backpacking in Denali National Park and kayaking across Kenai Fjords National Park. They’re both spectacular places. And bears aren’t uncommon in Denali.
As part of the backcountry protocol there, we spent much of our days regularly shouting “Hey, Bear!” when we weren’t talking to each other. It was an important precaution while bushwhacking for miles and days through thick vegetation, to avoid startling a bear that might be on the other side of a thicket.
Respect bears.
![Said the seagulls and the bear: Mine, mine… mine!](/images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170720-DSCF2566-480w.jpg 480w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170720-DSCF2566-640w.jpg 640w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170720-DSCF2566-1024w.jpg 1024w)
But there’s a place and time where, under the guidance of a wildlife ranger, it’s possible to get up close and personal. That’s what we sought to find on this adventure.
Here are some of the furry characters we met during the bountiful Alaskan summer salmon run in Bristol Bay, Alaska.
![](/images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170721-DSCF3568-480w.jpg 480w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170721-DSCF3568-640w.jpg 640w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170721-DSCF3568-1024w.jpg 1024w)
We got a chance to take in and share these magical places because humans have been responsible, with thoughtful conservation strategies, native pratices, and industries like sustainable fisheries.
But as remote as they are, they’re also in danger. Industrial mining interests are lobbying to destroy these treasured, unspoiled habitats with the Pebble Mine project. This place, America’s “Salmon Country” – a fishing paradise that feeds us, provides crucial jobs, and is a treasure for sportsmen and women and anyone that loves nature – is under threat.
So this was also a glimpse at the magic we all risk losing – that we have an opportunity to help conserve and protect.
![Our foxy neighbors at camp.](/images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170720-DSCF3134-480w.jpg 480w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170720-DSCF3134-640w.jpg 640w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170720-DSCF3134-1024w.jpg 1024w)
The Great One
We kicked off this adventure with a return to Denali National Park, driving in from Anchorage to backpack and enjoy the stunning Alaskan summer.
![Wildflowers in Denali National Park.](/images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170717-DSCF9501-480w.jpg 480w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170717-DSCF9501-640w.jpg 640w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170717-DSCF9501-1024w.jpg 1024w)
![Wild blueberries this way…](/images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170716-DSCF9353-480w.jpg 480w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170716-DSCF9353-640w.jpg 640w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170716-DSCF9353-1024w.jpg 1024w)
![Local roadside accomodations.](/images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170718-DSCF2269-480w.jpg 480w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170718-DSCF2269-640w.jpg 640w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170718-DSCF2269-1024w.jpg 1024w)
![A rare glimpse of Denali – the Great One – without its cloud veil. Seven out of ten days, the tallest peak in North America is shrouded in its own clouds.](/images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170718-DSCF9847-480w.jpg 480w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170718-DSCF9847-640w.jpg 640w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170718-DSCF9847-1024w.jpg 1024w)
Where we’re going, there are no roads
![Homer, Alaska, Amurica.](/images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170719-DSCF2427-480w.jpg 480w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170719-DSCF2427-640w.jpg 640w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170719-DSCF2427-1024w.jpg 1024w)
After reacclimating to backcountry life, we chartered a small seaplane to head to the more remote parts of Alaska further west. We weighed out all of our food and gear to keep to the weight limits – no easy task for folks who really enjoy both food and photography! Then we were off to more adventure.
![Flying in style, with proper precautions.](/images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170720-DSCF0274-480w.jpg 480w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170720-DSCF0274-640w.jpg 640w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170720-DSCF0274-1024w.jpg 1024w)
![The tent’s front yard: flowers for days.](/images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170725-DSCF1687-480w.jpg 480w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170725-DSCF1687-640w.jpg 640w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170725-DSCF1687-1024w.jpg 1024w)
![Our home in bear country.](/images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170720-DSCF0315-480w.jpg 480w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170720-DSCF0315-640w.jpg 640w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170720-DSCF0315-1024w.jpg 1024w)
Playing chess
The world’s largest concentration of brown bears congregates each summer at the river during the Alaskan salmon run. To the bears, it’s the ultimate all you can eat sushi bar – the endless sushi boats on a conveyer belt kind – at the grandest scale.
![Mom and cubs.](/images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170720-DSCF2611-480w.jpg 480w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170720-DSCF2611-640w.jpg 640w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170720-DSCF2611-1024w.jpg 1024w)
But to get to the river each morning, we had to play a game of chess with tides and bears.
Between our campsite and the river was a vast bay of water, with only a narrow band of land connecting us. Our group of humans shared that thin trail with mama bears and their cubs – and the moms always have right of way. So each morning the rangers had to plot the safe moves for us to navigate around the bear families to get us to the river.
But even with the best planning of movements on the board, we had close encounters:
![Sibs.](/images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170721-DSCF3513-480w.jpg 480w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170721-DSCF3513-640w.jpg 640w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170721-DSCF3513-1024w.jpg 1024w)
![Blowing raspberry.](/images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170721-DSCF3231-480w.jpg 480w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170721-DSCF3231-640w.jpg 640w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170721-DSCF3231-1024w.jpg 1024w)
![This is frolicking.](/images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170721-DSCF3590-480w.jpg 480w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170721-DSCF3590-640w.jpg 640w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170721-DSCF3590-1024w.jpg 1024w)
![Playing in the splash zone: The trail here was only a few yards wide, with a bay on one side and this family on the other. So we had to wait until the cubs were done playing and were ready to move on – not a bad wait.](/images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170721-DSCF3738-480w.jpg 480w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170721-DSCF3738-640w.jpg 640w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170721-DSCF3738-1024w.jpg 1024w)
![The coastal brown bear is a subspecies of <em>Ursus arctos</em>. They’re different from – but closely related to – the inland grizzly bear.](/images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170723-DSCF7360-480w.jpg 480w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170723-DSCF7360-640w.jpg 640w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170723-DSCF7360-1024w.jpg 1024w)
Unbearable charm
After our daily hikes to the river, we spent many many hours sitting still, doing nothing but intently observing the bears. And we couldn’t get enough of it.
What we didn’t expect – that became the most incredible part of this adventure – was having enough time to hang out and get to know the uniquely charming personality of each bear as an individual.
![The river currents were incredibly powerful – but you wouldn’t know it from seeing the bears stand motionless in the swift swirling eddies – before plunging in.](/images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170721-DSCF5180-480w.jpg 480w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170721-DSCF5180-640w.jpg 640w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170721-DSCF5180-1024w.jpg 1024w)
![Looking glamorous <em>and</em> metal. Note: fishes <em>were</em> harmed in the making of this lipstick.](/images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170721-DSCF3912-480w.jpg 480w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170721-DSCF3912-640w.jpg 640w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170721-DSCF3912-1024w.jpg 1024w)
![Sashimi time: Coastal brown bears have access to rich salmon food sources, unlike their grizzly bear cousins that live at higher elevations and feed on more vegetation.](/images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170722-DSCF5373-480w.jpg 480w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170722-DSCF5373-640w.jpg 640w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170722-DSCF5373-1024w.jpg 1024w)
Playful personalities
We ended up getting to know the bears by name, on sight – and could instantly recognize them from their unique behaviors.
There was the unforgettable “Big Ears”, who always looked as cute and he was hapless. One of our favorites, he was a giant beast of a creature with adorable pom pom ears. He’d sit in the most prime fishing spot on the entire river – yet he’d be lucky to catch one salmon in the time that his companions caught dozens. Then after he finally caught one? Somehow it’d wriggle away from his inches -long claws, and he’d mope around before trying again.
“Ted” was an older male who enjoyed his ritual naps in the middle of the powerful river. “Tina Fey” had a telltale scar on his face – but his most identifying characteristic was his habit of doing “yoga” streches to the sun in his quiet wading pool area of the river.
![Bear naps are the best.](/images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170724-DSCF1054-480w.jpg 480w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170724-DSCF1054-640w.jpg 640w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170724-DSCF1054-1024w.jpg 1024w)
Ivory Girl
And there was our rockstar, Ivory Girl. She was the only female bear who spent time in the busiest, most competitive fishing spots on the river. Like other females, she was at least a third smaller than the males. Yet she was – by far – the greatest hunter of them all.
In the hour it took other bears to catch one salmon or none, Ivory Girl would have effortlessly speared five giant dogfish salmon from the water. She’d quickly slice the belly to check for delcious roe treats and just toss it away if she didn’t find any. Or leave it for a male bear begging for food from her. Sidenote: bear begging behavior looks a lot like dog begging behavior – a little pathetic, and a lot adorable.
![Ivory Girl with yet another fresh catch.](/images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170722-DSCF5852-480w.jpg 480w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170722-DSCF5852-640w.jpg 640w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170722-DSCF5852-1024w.jpg 1024w)
![](/images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170723-DSCF7645-480w.jpg 480w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170723-DSCF7645-640w.jpg 640w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170723-DSCF7645-1024w.jpg 1024w)
![](/images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170723-DSCF7650-480w.jpg 480w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170723-DSCF7650-640w.jpg 640w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170723-DSCF7650-1024w.jpg 1024w)
The rangers described the behavior – hygrating – as equivalent to being so satiated that you can afford to just lick the frosting off every cupcake and toss away the rest. For us the treat was watching her fish with such incredible skill.
![Rocky was the best at instigating friendly play fights with the other bears at the river.](/images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170722-DSCF5431-480w.jpg 480w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170722-DSCF5431-640w.jpg 640w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170722-DSCF5431-1024w.jpg 1024w)
Family dinner and games…
After six to eight hours of bear observation, we’d hike back to the camp. Depending on the tides, sometimes we’d be in our waders knee deep in water. But on the way, we’d often enjoy some quailty family time with the mama bears and their adorable cubs.
It was awesome seeing how much of the cubs’ waking hours were just spent playing. Wresting, tumbling around, chasing, exploring rocks, experimenting with sticks, dancing, nuzzling. Play seems well conserved in the animal kingdom.
![](/images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170723-DSCF6982-480w.jpg 480w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170723-DSCF6982-640w.jpg 640w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170723-DSCF6982-1024w.jpg 1024w)
![](/images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170723-DSCF7203-480w.jpg 480w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170723-DSCF7203-640w.jpg 640w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170723-DSCF7203-1024w.jpg 1024w)
![](/images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170723-DSCF7245-480w.jpg 480w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170723-DSCF7245-640w.jpg 640w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170723-DSCF7245-1024w.jpg 1024w)
![](/images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170723-DSCF7256-480w.jpg 480w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170723-DSCF7256-640w.jpg 640w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170723-DSCF7256-1024w.jpg 1024w)
The lazy days of summer
The sun never sets in the Alaskan summer, and we appreciated every hour of it. Every day we spent with the bears of Bristol Bay was magical. Recognizing old habits, seeing new behaviors, getting to know these incredible creatures.
They were playful, unique, joyful – and at times, delightfully lazy. Or rather, just contentedly chill. It was a good reminder of how special every individual and every moment is. Bear or otherwise.
![My humps: Both brown bears and black bears can have similar fur coloration, but the larger brown bear is distinguished by its strong shoulder humps.](/images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170723-DSCF8007-480w.jpg 480w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170723-DSCF8007-640w.jpg 640w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170723-DSCF8007-1024w.jpg 1024w)
![Just your average brown bear and wolf hanging out together.](/images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170724-DSCF1282-480w.jpg 480w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170724-DSCF1282-640w.jpg 640w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170724-DSCF1282-1024w.jpg 1024w)
![Back at camp, ready for bed with the sun still shining brightly.](/images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170725-DSCF1665-480w.jpg 480w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170725-DSCF1665-640w.jpg 640w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170725-DSCF1665-1024w.jpg 1024w)
They’re powerful, majestic, and adorable.
And they need your help.
Bristol Bay is one of the richest habitats in the world for the brown bear and countless other animals. But all those animals are now in jeopardy as a foreign company lobbies the federal government to build an industrial copper and gold mine in the middle of it.
They’re reqesting a permit to, among other things, dump 2.5 to 10 billion tons of mine waste into the Bristol Bay watershed. That’s enough industrial waste to bury the entire city of Seattle, Washington.
![Sitting by the river, we could count out 47 bears in view.](/images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170724-DSCF1315-480w.jpg 480w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170724-DSCF1315-640w.jpg 640w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170724-DSCF1315-1024w.jpg 1024w)
And it’s not just nature that’s at risk – the livelihoods of thouands of American families are at risk, too. The salmon that would be endangered by the mine not only feeds the bears, but feeds humans and supplies jobs.
![](/images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170724-DSCF1301-480w.jpg 480w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170724-DSCF1301-640w.jpg 640w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170724-DSCF1301-1024w.jpg 1024w)
Bristol Bay is one of the world’s last great salmon fisheries. Commerical fishermen, local tribes, sportsmen and women, and thouands of American businesses that provide Americans with jobs would all be threatened if an industrial mining operation is allowed to irrevocably damage this part of Alaska.
If you’d like to help protect these people – not to mention the incredible natural wonders here, and bears like Big Ears and Ivory Girl – please consider signing the petition to Save Bristol Bay.
I hope you’ve enjoyed seeing these beautiful living treasures. You have a voice in helping to keep these places safe for all of us, and all of the future.
Thank you!
![](/images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170725-DSCF1452-480w.jpg 480w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170725-DSCF1452-640w.jpg 640w, /images/r/2017/alaska/copyright-tomnguyen_com-20170725-DSCF1452-1024w.jpg 1024w)